Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Marseille, Day 2: Good food, good times!

Hello hello! I'm back again, with more news of day two of Marisa's Fabulous Marseille Mini Vacation. As I was "that girl sleeping on the couch," I got to know several people at my hostel pretty well. Sad, since I had to leave the next day, but it was fun staying up and chatting with whomever, sharing travel experiences, making plans for the next day. As it turns out, an American couple, Stuart and Kara, also had plans to wake up bright and early the next morning, so we decided to do so together and see what the port had to offer in terms of its early morning catch. The boats literally pull right up onto the edge of the Vieux Port, the fishers have their tables, and they place their catch right there and make up signs detailing how much it all is. I was pooped from the previous day's walking, but the early morning atmosphere was definitely worth it!


Something seems a little fishy here...nah, probably just me.

And, whaddya know, Stuart works on ships and knows pretty much everything there is to know about them, so it was endless fun listening to him talk expert sailor speak while Kara and I snapped photos. We even ran into a slightly sad, old vessel that was permanently docked and converted into a restaurant. Although rotting from the hull and showing obvious signs of decay, you could totally imagine the glory of her illustrious past. We even ran into a guy who works on the boat. Stuart wanted to know more about the boat, so the guy said he could come up for a bit, so on we went. Of course, I had to take a moment to unleash the pirate within:

Yarrrr. I be a fearsome scallywag. =D

After a while, though, I decided it was time to part ways (for the moment) and continue on my first mission for the day: exploring the other side of the Vieux Port and old town (remember that fort I was peeking at yesterday?). I ran into Stuart and Kara intermittently throughout the day, which was quite nice, and we made plans for dinner later that evening. Me, I went at a nice slow pace and enjoyed the beautiful, sunny morning where rock meets sea, watching the boats go about their business. This was one of those times when not having someone to talk to made the moment even better. Some good daydreaming and thinking took place here. =)


This guy looks like he's off to do cool things.


My old digital camera's about as honest as they come. You know the view's special when a photo like this shows up :)

So, with fort number two down and lots of morning time left on my hands, I decided it was time to see what this part of town had to offer. I ran into another stunning, unfairly beautiful cathedral (and back into Stuart and Kara!), then wandered around a bit before seeing on my tourist map something called the Vielle Charité. Probably just another nothing special church, right? Not worth seeing? Right, I went anyway, and as a church compared to the others it was nothing special, but as it turns out there was a sculpture exhibition inside one of the buildings. What started as a small detour ended up as an hour's worth of me (and only me, nobody else was at the exhibit at the time) silently gawking over statues like this:


 Well, that's not the proper way to wear a robe, ma'am.

 After bonding with the marble, I decided it was time to move on. I took a break from the tourist stops and decided to see where my feet took me. Several random turns, a twenty-minute walk, and one hill later, I find myself in this place: just a bunch of buildings/apartments set around the remnants of an old windmill in a square, with a little elementary school filled with noisy kids inside. It was wonderful.

 Kids are the same everywhere. They're all horrible drawers. :)


 Nothing really special about this picture, it just says "Marseille" to me.

Afterward, lunch in the Panier, the area of town where the artisans have their shops and the more bohemian crowd historically frequented. I bought some wonderful soap (Savon de Marseille- they're known for it), and lunch at a boulangerie for 5,50 euro. I got a pizza with goat cheese and tomato, a fruit tart, and a twisty chocolate bread thing. I sat on some steps and, again, watched the world go by. I must have looked quite happy; one couple walking past wished me 'bon appetit,' and another smiled and said my tart looked delicious. I also ran into a dude from the hostel with his girlfriend out for a walk.


 Yumyum. Also, I should be more patient and take pictures of my food without bite marks in them.

So, now that I had a full tummy, what was next? According to my tourist map, the Jardin des Vestiges, a place I'd wanted to check out if I had some time, was also right next to Marseille's very own history museum. With my student card I got into both the park and the museum for free. I checked out the park first, and my full tummy told me it was time for a 2:30 nap. I followed the example of one or two others, picked my spot, and snoozed half-in half-out of the shade for 40 minutes.


 Remnants of ancient domiciles. Unassuming, utilitarian. I like it.

Afterward, refreshed and perky, I learned all about this old town at the nifty museum and made it back to the other side of the port and the hostel in time to meet up for dinner. I (and they) got recommendations from the locals for this one place with a fabulously jolly mustachioed chef (Monsieur Loury) that serves up excellent bouillabaisse at a reasonable price (considering that it can run you 50 euro at the best restaurants, 19 euro was nothing! And it was divine). We got there well before dinner service commenced, so we enjoyed aperitifs and music from the street.

 Creme de cassis. And I can buy it. Legally!

Afterward, the main course, the one we were all waiting for: multiple fish, one tasty broth, some potatoes and croutons. Yes, everyone, it's bouillabaisse, the Marseille specialty and the seafood lover's dream. Oh, was it tasty.

Humble in appearance, divine in the mouth. Peasant dish elevated to incredible heights.

 After a few hours of chatting, a bottle of local wine, and some delicious dessert (chocolate truffles and crème brulée), we were ready to stroll off our meal. We found our way to the most spectacular fountain I have ever seen. It doesn't even have a name, it's just le chateau d'eau by the Palais Longchamps, but it's two stories high and breathtaking by night. I only wish I could have gotten closer, but it's closed after dark. Alas, for the next visit, I suppose?

 sigh...

 And eventually, it was finally off to bed, to rest and relax for the next day's adventures- a day trip to Aix-en-Provence. Until next time!


Full moon. Watch out for werewolves...

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